Ayahuasca Tourism A Cautionary Tale
Author: Stuart, R.
Date: 2002-07-29T13:37:44+00:00
Keywords: Psychedelic Library; com0; com1proceess
Description: Westerners discontent with their Judeo-Christian heritage have long sought alternative spiritual traditions. In the 1950s, the Beats dabbled in Zen. In the 1960s, the hippies flocked to Hindu swamis. In the 1970s, the Reverend Moon and other cult leaders swayed large followings. In the 1980s, the New Agers embraced Tibetan lamas. In the 1990s, shamanism came into vogue. Perhaps within a few years, the avant-garde of the United States will undergo a mass conversion to Islam in order to assimilate this estranged manifestation of the Other. But at the present time, many North Americans and Europe

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Ayahuasca Tourism: A Cautionary Tale R. Stuart

Westerners discontent with their Judeo-Christian heritage have long sought alternative spiritual traditions. In the 1950s, the Beats dabbled in Zen. In the 1960s, the hippies flocked to Hindu swamis. In the 1970s, the Reverend Moon and other cult leaders swayed large followings. In the 1980s, the New Agers embraced Tibetan lamas. In the 1990s, shamanism came into vogue. Perhaps within a few years, the avant-garde of the United States will undergo a mass conversion to Islam in order to assimilate this estranged manifestation of the Other. But at the present time, many North Americans and Europeans are still seeking enlightenment through explor-ing shamanism, some traveling to South America to find the wisdom, and the brews, of other traditions.

“Ayahuasca tourists are

Ayahuasca tourists are often bewildered by the fact that almost every shaman claims to be the only person in often bewildered by the all of Amazonia who knows how to properly brew the magic fact that almost every potion. So the question foremost in many peoples’ minds is, “How do I find a good ayahuasquero?”

shaman claims to be the

In November 2001, I observed ayahuasca tourism only person in all of while visiting Ucayali, Peru as part of a cactus identifica-tion research project supported by a grant from Bob Wallace Amazonia who knows to MAPS (an article about this project will appear in the how to properly brew next issue of Entheogen Review). In Peru, the drug war is in full force. Television shows portray marijuana as a killer the magic potion.”

weed — although hemp leaf patches adorn the clothing of many adolescents. Cocaine traffickers regularly close off the only road connecting Lima to several outlying provinces for weeks –
no doubt abetted by corrupt politicians and military officials. In contrast to US drug policy, however, Peruvians regard ayahuasca as an herbal tonic rather than an illegal drug. Although a few years ago the American ayahuasquero Alan Shoemaker was imprisoned in Peru for distributing ayahuasca, this appears to be an isolated incident.

A Religion and an Industry

Ayahuasca is popular among the indigenous people and among many mestizos. Pentecostal, Adventist, and (to a lesser extent) Catholic mission-aries have gained many converts in the indigenous communities. While these Christians publicly disavow shamanism, I met some who still privately consume ayahuasca and continued other native religious practices.

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Overall, ayahuasca is a valued part of Peruvian mercialized ayahuasca ceremony would probably spiritual and economic life. The government tour-be shallower than a ritual conducted solely for ist agencies sponsor ayahuasca festivals, the the benefit of the shaman’s relatives and com-brew and the raw materials for its manufacture munity. In a commercialized ceremony, one could are openly sold in markets, and even Peru’s cur-observe the ritual procedures and enjoy listen-rent president Alejandro Toledo participated in ing to the chanting of icaros. Probably the dose an ayahuasca ceremony.

of ayahuasca would be mild, as the shaman would Ayahuasca tourism is popular elsewhere in usually rather err on the side of caution, prefer-South America as well. Some tourists visit Bra-ring to give too little rather than too much.

zilian ayahuasca churches such as the Santo Given the linguistic barriers and cultural misun-Daime. Others go on the more expensive Ameri-derstandings that are likely to confound com-can-led retreats. While the four-star ayahuasca munication even in the ordinary state of con-resorts may feel overly contrived, any tour led sciousness, it is only prudent for the shaman to by Peter Gorman is almost certainly going to be take reasonable precautions to prevent problems interesting.

with foreigners.

For the past decade, many ayahuasca tourists in Peru have flocked to Iquitos. Another The Ayahuasqueros
popular location, although it lacks a hotel, is the Shipibo town of San Francisco, which can I had the opportunity to spend time get-be reached by a taxi ride from Yarina. In fact, ting to know several ayahuasqueros who per-the enormous sign at the entrance of San Fran-form ceremonies for tourists. “B” is an elderly cisco proclaims that the town is the “Centro Cer-shaman in Yarina, a town near the city of emonial del Ayahuasca.” There are at least a Pucallpa. I lived in the ceremonial hut in his couple of ayahuasqueros in almost every Shipibo back yard for a week, observing the nightly family. Many of these practitioners are willing ayahuasca ceremonies that attract up to a couple to host services both for other Peruvians and dozen visitors. I became familiar with B’s lead-also for foreign visitors.

ership style because his son, the director of the family religious practice, was giving workshops A Medical Caution
in the United States. I discovered that B is a frequent liar, a shoplifter, and that he soon asks Most shamans are unfamiliar with Western pharmaceuticals, so it is the tourist’s responsi-bility to be aware that ayahuasca can have ad-

“Unless a tourist spent a long
verse interactions with various prescription medi-while getting to know a
cines, particularly some medications used to treat AIDS, depression and psychiatric disorders. For practitioner, the character of instance, one AIDS patient died during a cer-a commercialized ayahuasca
emony in Bolivia, although he was sufficiently healthy to dance at the beginning of the ser-ceremony would probably be
vice.

shallower than a ritual

About The Ceremony

conducted solely for the
benefit of the shaman’s

Unless a tourist spent a long while getting to know a practitioner, the character of a com-relatives and community.”

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for money or gifts at
rience. While many sha-

“This do-it-yourself approach
every opportunity.

mans undoubtedly

Two other aya-
could potentially be far more come to their profes-huasqueros were vis—
sion to help others, be

enlightening than what one
iting B’s group for a
aware that ayahuasca
two-week training.

might experience after
tourism is a thriving

One was a sweet and
business in Peru, and
traveling all the way to South
wonderful guy, but his
that you will likely be
partner always hustled

America.”

treated as just that – a
me for spare change.

tourist.

I also met B’s nephew, an enterprising shaman Of course, my personal observations and who earns a couple hundred dollars per month encounters will be different than those of any catering to tourists while his neighbors can not other person travelling to Peru. But I would even afford a thirty cent taxi ride. He charges advise prospective tourists to weigh their own thirty dollars to give ayahuasca to a tourist, motivations to determine if it is worth making a while the going rate for a Peruvian is about two long trip to another continent. If one is inter-dollars.

ested in learning about many different aspects I met several other ayahuasqueros during of another society, and is willing to navigate my travels, some of whom seemed to be fair, Peru’s unpolished infrastructure, then it might and some who did not. In the town of San Fran-be interesting to also try ayahuasca while on cisco, I met “E,” who was widely regarded as an vacation.

honorable man. At night I heard icaros being If one were specifically interested only in sung in the darkness of his home while he held experiencing ayahuasca, it would be more cost-private services for his family. I believe he effective to home-brew a batch with ingredi-charged about ten dollars to give ayahuasca to ents ordered from an ethnobotanical supplier.

a tourist. I also met and learned the life history With the help of an experienced friend as a sit-of “A,” whose invitations for rituals I declined ter, one could have an intense entheogenic ex-after he swindled me on the price of a tobacco perience in the safety and comfort of home or pipe.

in an isolated natural setting. This do-it-your-I share these stories to point out that it is self approach could potentially be far more en-a tricky endeavor to travel to a third world coun-lightening than what one might experience af-try and ask a total stranger for a spiritual expe-ter traveling all the way to South America.

Pablo Amaringo

The Three Powers

Detail